Hays, Kansas

 

Welcome

From Nicodemus, head south via Highway 183 to I-70, to arrive at Hays, Kansas.  Ft. Hays lies south of the city, and is an important waypoint on the Custer Trail as this post was Custer's first western base of operations for his introduction to the west and Indian fighting.  

Shortly after the Civil War, railroad builders and settlers began pushing into central and western Kansas with ever-increasing intensity, provoking resistance from the Indian inhabitants of the region. To provide protection, the federal government established military posts including Fort Dodge on the Santa Fe Trail and Fort Fletcher, later Fort Hays, on the Smoky Hill Trail. Railroad survey crews were just arriving in the vicinity when Fort Fletcher, named for Missouri Governor Thomas C. Fletcher, was established 14 miles southeast of present Hays on October 11, 1865.  A year later the name was changed to honor General Alexander Hays, who had been killed in 1864 at the Battle of the Wilderness. After the Fort was virtually destroyed in a flash flood in 1867, it was relocated to a site now just south of the City of Hays.  Unlike the typical military posts of the earlier eastern frontier, there was no stockade or fortification wall. Instead, officers quarters, barracks, headquarters, storehouses, and other buildings grouped around a parade ground constituted the outline of the new Fort Hays. In 1867, Hays City was staked out a mile to the east and, with the arrival of the railroad in October, the fortunes of Hays City and Fort Hays became almost inseparable.  The military post was turned into a quartermaster depot that supplied other forts throughout the west and southwest. Such an operation required a large number of civilian as well as military personnel, and Hays City consequently experienced a rapid and turbulent development.  During this time Hays City was a gathering place for scouts, buffalo hunters, railroad workers, soldiers, and desperadoes. In those days, Hays was a wild town filled with saloons and dance halls. The well-known frontiersman “Buffalo Bill” Cody and William Rose platted the nearby town of Rome and built a saloon in the spring of 1867.  The legendary James B."Wild Bill" Hickok served as acting county sheriff for a few months in 1869, but left town the next year after a brawl with some troopers. By the 1880's, the town had shed its rough and rowdy ways and became a peaceful center for commerce and farming as well as an arrival point for Volga German immigrants.  With less need for the post, commanders were recommending by the mid-1870s that Fort Hays be abandoned and finally, on November 8, 1889, the last garrison moved out. In 1897, Congress gave the land to the State of Kansas to be used for a college, agricultural experiment station, and park.  An oil boom during the 1930's enhanced business activity in Hays during a period of decline for most western Kansas towns. Hays has continued growing in recent years due to its status as a regional commercial center.  Hays has a culturally diverse heritage.  Nearly a thousand German- speaking Catholics migrated to Ellis County from the Volga River area of Russia during the late 1870's. Volga-German villages formed in the area include Katharinenstadt (Catherine), Herzog (Victoria), Pfeifer, Munjor, Schoenchen, and Liebenthal (in neighboring Rush County).

  

A "must see" attraction in Hays is the Sternberg Museum of Natural History which gives the visitor a glimpse of what pioneer life in Kansas was like.  Spend some time learning about the City of Hays, but the objective of this visit is to understand the lay of the land at Ft. Hays, where Custer stood, and what Custer saw.

 

 

 

Entrance to Ft. Hays

 

 

Ft. Hays Museum

 

Officer's Row

 

Block House

Jail

 

Ft Hays- 1870s

View from Ft. Hays to the Ft. Hays State University

 

Real Live Buffalo at Frontier Park